So you researched the value of your bag and are about to list it. Most Facebook selling pages demand that you include all charges in your listing price. To make sure your expenses are all covered, consider: Postage Make sure you chose an adequate service. Royal Mail's standard insurance only covers a parcel value up to £50. Anything above that value needs to be sent by "Next Day Special Delivery". This not only guarantees delivery by 1pm for the next working day but also insures your parcel up to £500. Check Royal Mail pricefinder for details Packaging I have stacks of boxes sat in a cupboard (actually, usually they're stacked up next to the front door, much to Mr G's annoyance) and keep various packing materials. I buy some bubble wrap and nice tissue papers every now and then and don't tend to relay that cost to my buyer but you could calculate a contribution into your total selling price. Paypal Fees Most selling pages and eBay stipulate payment via Paypal Goods & Services and the fees are automatically deducted from the amount the seller receives. The fees equate to 3.4% of the total amount plus £0.20. E.g. if your buyer sends you £500, you will receive £482.80. If you'd want to receive the full £500, you'd have to ask the buyer to pay £517.81 (though you may well round to a sum nearby). TIP:use this Paypal calculator!
Calculating your "all in" selling price So, let's assume you have a bag, for which you research a maximum value of around £350 and for which you want to receive no less than £320. It's quite heavy, so you think you'll have to spend £11 on postage. You don't have a box to hand, so you buy a nice box and bubble wrap for £5. £320 + £11 + £5 = £336 To receive £336, your buyer has to send £348.03. Bit of an odd number, so you'd probably list at the nice round figure of £350. Or maybe £349, if you want the price to look that tad more competitive. Tips
Bear in mind though that the seller will only pay what they believe the bag is worth, so whilst you want to calculate in your postage costs and fees, don't over-inflate your selling price - your bag simply won't sell.
Don't be tempted to offer payment via Paypal Friends & Family - you're likely to get chucked and blocked from the relevant selling site, as it's against the rules.
If your prospective buyer lives nearby, you could agree to meet and cut out postage and fees. In that case: insist on cash on delivery, as a G&S Paypal payment demands a postage receipt, which you obviously wouldn't have if you handed over the bag in person.
Hopefully you found these tips useful. More about selling your bag on a Facebook group here!
One of the most common queries on our Mulberry Facebook group right behind "is this bag genuine?" is "how do I price my bag that I want to sell?" We are usually happy to help but sometimes the sheer volume of queries (alongside approving selling and chatting posts) means we can't reply until later - or not at all. So here a few good pointers: Your bag's condition Have a good and honest look at your bag with the eyes of a buyer. With that I mean, forget that it's your bag for a minute and imagine you just bought and received it in the post. What's the condition like? That scuff that you normally don't notice might suddenly bug you. The little pen mark would take the shine off it for you. (It goes without saying that any fluff, crumbs or marks that can be polished away, should be removed. Sounds grim but whilst you put up with your own dirt, you would probably slightly wretch at that of others!) How much are other bags selling for? A good place to research prices are these: Facebook selling groups - Simply pop the name of your bag in the search bar and see which other bags of the same model are currently up for sale. Tip: click on "All Posts" so view those that have already sold. Ebay - Again, search for your bag model and then filter by "sold". Evaluate your findings 1. Compare the condition of those bags that you researched with yours. Where does your bag sit? 2. Consider rarity - how many search results did you actually get? Lots of bags of the same model means it's buyer's market: they have lots to chose from. Only a couple or handful?
Also consider 1. Seasonality - In spring or summer you might find it harder to sell oak or darker leathers. In winter the candy/pastel colours might not be so covetable. Coming up to the sale, people might be saving their pennies to buy new for not much more than pre-loved prices. And after the sale they are spent up. 2. Other factors that drive desirability - The market can be incredibly fickle. I've seen my fair share of crazes come and go - and that's just on the selling pages! Somebody receives a fairly rare item and suddenly everybody wants it. Wait a month or two and suddenly loads are for sale - and nobody wants them anymore. Keep your eyes on ISO (In Search Of) posts and chats. 3. How quickly do you want to sell? Want to sell quickly? Pick your price at the bottom of the range. Don't mind waiting for it to shift? You can afford to set your price slightly higher and wait until somebody comes along who is happy to pay that. 4. Not sure you actually really want to sell? Set a price (which may well be on the higher side) at which you will be absolutely fine if your bag goes. Even if you miss it, you'll be happy to have gotten that money - probably to buy something else?! 5 . Consider if you'd be approachable for an offer. If somebody pm's you and asks whether they can make an offer, don't be offended. See what they have to say and consider it. If it's not enough decline politely.
Want to find out more about selling your Mulberry (or other designer bag) on Facebook pages? Start here!
I get it. Reading the Pinned Post is a pain. Wading through the rules and understanding what makes a Facebook group tick can feel like a bit of work. But I promise you: get this bit right and you will make your life much easier. And more importantly: you will make the residing admins love you and add you to their Christmas card list.(*slight exaggeration, no guarantees.)
So what happens if you don't?
Well, for one thing your post might either get deleted or not get approved in the first place. Why? Take a look...
So my top tips:
Don't forget pics of the features inside the bag: Mulberry imprint, front and back of fob, front and back of made in label. Have a look here for some good examples.
Very few Mulberry bags have no "made in" label. Can't find one? Search for it. Still nothing? Search again. They like to hide in inside pockets, nooks and crannies. If there's just a leather tab instead of a label, include a pic of that instead.
Don't forget to mention whether the bag comes from a smoke or pet free home. It's fine if it doesn't but you must disclose this. Either way, mention it.
Want pricing advice? PM admin.
No "any interest in my bag?" posts. Thinking of selling? Do a sales post.
Right, I'm way too tired and so behind on this, so I'm gonna make it short and snappy:
If you know my blog, you are probably a member of at least one of the Mulberry selling groups on Facebook - or maybe, like me, of all of them? I love them all, they all have their own personality and style and provide different points of views.
After having been a member of Mulberry Buy and Sell for around a year, Esme (who founded the page) and Victoria asked me to join their admin team. I've now been part of that team for few weeks, the group has grown to over 10,000 members and I thought I'd talk to not just our members but any members of a buying/selling page.
My plan is in the next few weeks to give more guidance around these rules but for now (because of the late- and tiredness) I will leave you with these: 1. Read the Pinned Post. Make sure you're familiar with the rules around buying, selling and generally using the page. You ask why?! Find out here! 2. Take good pictures. Whilst you need to make sure you show and declare all your bag's flaws, you want to sell it - so make it look good! Some top tips here! 3. Research price. Price it too high and it simply won't sell; too low and you will lose out. Some pointers here. 4. Include all charges. Check in the pinned post you you should show the price. Usually it's an 'all in' price, so make sure you include Paypal fees and postal charges. A quick guide on how to calculate here. 5. Have your Paypal ready. Paypal is usually the only acceptable payment method on these pages - so if you want to buy or sell: have your account ready.
6. Be around after you post. Try to be around when your post gets approved as people might comment - and be happy to answer questions. 7. Be nice to admin. Pretty easy. They want a simple life. Follow the rules, be friendly and patient (yes, that includes, no constant "why hasn't my post been approved yet" messages) and you will find they will help you where ever they can. Annoy them at your own peril.
Ever wondered what you could do to make your bag look and feel as beautiful as possible when selling it? Shian of the legendary NaughtiPidgins Nestwas kind of enough to share her secrets with us, so look no further!
Shian, what are your top tips on preparing a bag for re-sale? "I am often asked about care and maintenance of bags and tend to refer folks
over to my Leather Guide, for information on
particular leather types and finishes. However, I thought it might be useful to provide some guidance on how to
prepare a bag for resale, whether you are thinking of selling at the Nest or
anywhere else. When you buy a preloved bag, irrespective of how much wear its received,
everyone wants it to be clean, tidy and odour free. There are just a few simple
steps you can take when you a recycling your bag, to ensure that its in the
best condition possible and your buyer is delighted. Step one Gather your tools. You'll need
a stiff washing up
brush
a soft-bristle toothbrush
some lanolin free leather cleaning wipes
some baby wipes
a duster
cellotape
a can of leather shine spray and
a small
pot of leather balm (I recommend Lord Sheraton)
Step two Whether your bag is suede lined, self lined or
fabric lined, the interior need to to be brushed out. If it has a fabric lining
and can be turned out, gently pull the lining out so you can brush, making sure
to turn out the corners where all the dust and bits collect. Do the same with
any zip or slip pockets and make sure any hairs and fluff that often get stuck
between the stitching is removed. On unlined bags or ones where the inside
stays 'in' the bag, turn it upside down and brush out gently, again making sure
to get right into the corners, nooks and crannies. Don't forget any hidden
areas, like the base of a Bayswaters flap, where it joins the bag, as spaces
like this collect bits more than anywhere! Step three After you've brushed, on to a really thorough
cleaning of the seams and harder to reach places. For this, just wrap some
cellotape, sticky side outwards, round your index finger and run it along the
seams. It will pick up the last of the fluff and hairs and after renewing the
cellotape several times, you'll be surprised how much debris you collect. Step four For lined bags, you can then wipe the material
with a moistened baby wipe to remove any light marks or stains. Don't scrub as
you may damage the fabric but clean as best as possible and ensure its all dry
before putting the bag away. For unlined or suede lined bags, you can use a
lanolin free leather wipe but again, don't scrub as the pile will be damaged
and possible look worse than the stain did! Step five For the exterior of the bag, your cleaning
technique will again be dictated by the finish. A lambskin or very fine nap
leather bag will require a much gentler approach that something like Natural or
Darwin and I'd always recommend using some light cotton gloves for the more
delicate hides to prevent any oil or grease transfer from your hands. For
quilted bags or those with intricate stitching, sequins or beads, use the
soft-bristled toothbrush to gently dust the outside. Do the same with any chain
and leather intertwined straps and around hardware and closures. Step six Then, gently wipe over the exterior of the bag
with the lanolin free cleaning wipes, taking care to sweep lightly over the
surface so that no areas darken or 'soak' the moisture into the hide. Patent or
demi-sheen finishes will require buffing to remove any residual smears and
hardware can also be buffed, taking care to ensure there are no 'bits' on your
cloth that will scratch the metalware. Step seven For more used bags, you can sometimes improve
on areas of wear and or dryness, by the use of moisturising products. Dependant
on the nature of the leather and the severity of the wear, a light spritz with
a Leather Shine spray and buff with a lint free cloth can bring back a lovely
lustre to the hide, especially on smooth leather bags. Very dry areas such as
corners, can benefit from a more intense application and a leather balm, warmed
in your hands and then massaged evenly into the hide, which can help replenish
some of the lost moisture and oils........ but please remember, if you are
looking to 'restore' your bag prior to sale, then its best left to the
professionals. I am always happy to recommend some really good companies, so just get in
touch as I'd be delighted to assist." Toothbrush and cellotape - who would have thought?! Thanks for reading and happy cleaning!
This post was chosen by Independent Fashion Bloggers as one featured in their Links à la Mode for that week. Do have a look at the other brilliant posts below.
I've talked a lot about buying bags. But what happens if you just keep buying? Wardrobe overload. Bankruptcy. Divorce. Well, you never know... So before you can go and buy that next item on your list, you want to move on one of your bags. No idea where to start?
Here are my quick top 5 tips: 1. Determine Price
There are a few factors you'll want to consider:
How quickly do you want to sell? How much did you pay for that bag? And what is she worth right now?
You'll have an idea about the first two. For the last one I'd point you in the direction of these two sites: Naughtipidgins Nest Great first stop to check prices. Just type the name of the bag you're researching into the search box and all current stock PLUS previously sold bags come up. As Shian describes condition in detail, this is a fab starting point for gauging how much you might be able to ask for your bag. eBay Same principle as above: do a search for the bag and then tick the box "Sold". That way you see what has sold recently and for how much. I'd just add here that eBay is way more volatile and you'll see some "blips" on here. When deciding on a price bear in mind seasonality/time of year. In spring or summer you might find it harder to sell oak or darker leathers. In winter the candy/pastel colours might not be so covetable. Coming up to the sale, people might be saving their pennies to buy new for not much more than pre-loved prices. And after the sale they are spent up. I'd also say: always be approachable for an offer. Unless you're happy to just wait until you get the price you want. That's fine too but you might just have to wait for a while. 2. Assure Authenticity Authenticate4u.com will carry out a full authentication for just £5. They are also usually happy to help if you don't know what your bag is called or which leather she has been made from. Being able to provide a certificate will reassure your buyer (especially if you haven't sold before and aren't "known" as a seller yet) and it will also protect you, should somebody claim you sold them a fake. 3. Prettify
Unless somebody has asked for a bag I happen to have and wants her straight away, I usually spend some time and give her some TLC. Sure, you won't always be able to get rid of every flaw but I want to know that that bag left my house looking as good as she can and I want my buyer to open that box and be thrilled. I therefore treat the leather, usually with Collonil gel, though it depends on what finish the bag is in. If there are any stains on the fabric lining, I try to get them out. If the bag has suede lining, I give it a nice brush. I always ask myself "would I be happy to receive a bag like this after having just parted with £x?" 4. Wrap it up
I've sold a bag. The person who receives my parcel has probably saved up for her and treated themselves. As I said above, I want them to be thrilled when they open the box and not just find a bag chucked into an empty box or haphazardly covered with bubble wrap. I therefore usually stuff the bag with tissue paper and/or bubble wrap (depending on how much we have to stuff, really). Then wrap her in bubble wrap. Then she goes in her dustbag. Then in a box lined with tissue paper. And I always include a little card to say "Thank you". 5. Chose correct postage
Nothing worse than sending off that lovely parcel and then hearing that it's not arrived by the time it should have. Hopefully you will have paid for a tracking service, so you can check where the parcel is. But what if the parcel is lost full stop? Well, hopefully you have not only paid for tracking but also for insurance. Royal Mail's standard insurance only covers a value up to £50. I therefore usually send my parcels by "Special Delivery". This not only guarantees delivery by 1pm for the next working day but also insures your parcel up to £500. Check Royal Mail pricefinder for details but I usually pay either £8.55 (500g-1kg), £11 (up to 2kg) or £28.28 (up to 5kg). Saving on postage is the wrong place to save. It's your responsibility to get that bag to your buyer. Losing a £500 bag and not being able to claim back more than £50 from Royal Mail pretty much just sucks. You also want to cover yourself of the one or two bad eggs out there, who claim they never received that parcel. So there you go. Did I say short and snappy? Well, you should know me by now...
